As many Asian woman know, a basic makeup application does not answer how to work with their beautiful features and an occasional flaw: Skimpy eye lids, yellow undertones, round races, thin lips, wide set eyes. Makeup artist Taylor Chang-Babaian's new book, "Asian Faces: The Essential Beauty and Makeup Guide for Asian Women," is full of beauty basics for a growing segment of the population in the United States — Asian women. Chang-Babaian writes "No two Asian women are alike, and no two Asian faces are alike. The term 'Asian' applies to a wide variety of cultures: Chinese, Korean, Indian, Vietnamese — the list goes on and on. And the makeup that works for one woman Foundations: As I'm sure you all know, finding the correct shade for Asian woman is not easy. Most makeup lines carry tones in pink. On Asian skin, this creates a mask effect. Look for foundations that have a yellow or slight olive undertone for pale light to dark skin. NARS and Cover FX are great lines that cater to Asian woman and yellow undertones in makeup. Here's a few of their foundation shades for Asian woman:
Contouring can help a variety of flaws: "flat" face appearance, very round facial shapes, wide set eyes, large foreheads and so on. Contouring is one of the oldest practices in the makeup industry. Yet it is one of the most frequently left-out steps. Contouring creates a sense of balance, adding definition with color. Bronzers, deeper foundation shades and powders are great to use for this.
Forehead: If you have a wide forehead, apply a light bronzer to each temple and blend
Chin: For a small, thin chin, apply highlighter to the center of the chin, directly under the center of the lip. To minimize a double chin, apply bronzer along the jaw line and blend it down, towards your neck. This creates depth and helps to strengthen the jaw line. You should always apply contouring color on your neck to your shirt line to avoid a "mask" look.
Lips: To slim full lips, apply a deep shade of lip color to the entire lip. If you want to plump up thin lips, you can apply a light lip color with shimmer or gloss. Then apply highlighter between the peaks of the upper lip and below the center of the lower lip. This makes thin lips look full and gives a pouty appearance
Nose: To slim your nose you would apply the contouring shade on each side of your nose, blending carefully, and the highlighter down the center of your nose.
Cheekbones: To enhance the cheekbones, suck in your cheeks, apply a darker shade to the hollows and a highlighter to the top of the cheekbones. Then apply blush as normal. Don't over due it!
If you have a very prominent brow bone and large upper space above the crease, stick to medium shades. Highlighting colors will do just that, emphasize that area and make them appear bigger.
Black eye liner will make the eye appear smaller. Opt for dark browns and charcoals. you'll be amazed by going one shade lighter than black, how much it will open your eyes.
If your eyes are too "cat's eye" looking and you want them to appear more round, do not extend the top or bottom liner past the outer corners. Stop right at the end, with a blunt line.
For small eyes, extend the shadow out past the outer corner just past where brow ends.
might not work for her sister. We have so many variations in skin tone, eye shape, and bone structure".
Luckily, with the help of esteemed make up artists like Taylor Chang-Babaian, the cosmetic industry has finally recognized that what works for Caucasian women, might not work for Asian woman. And have come out with makeup tools to help conceal flaws along with appreciating the difference in skin tones, facial shapes and eye shapes, making the most of the natural and exotic beauty of all Asian women
Instead of using a heavy foundation all over the face, try these tips:
Use a make up primer, then follow with a light dusting of powder. Smashbox makeup artists use this product to create a perfect canvas for foundation application and can also be wonderful in correcting undertones in the skin. SMASHBOX Photo Finish Foundation Primer comes in an array of tones from clear to apricot, perfect for yellow undertones.
Use mineral makeup. Whoever invented mineral makeup is a genius!!! It gives a flawless finish but is so light, it feels like you have nothing on your skin. It truly does create a smooth, seamless finish on the skin.
One of our Favorites and award winning pick: BareMinerals SPF 15 Foundation in LIGHT (light skin/ golden undertones) is made of only pure, crushed minerals from the earth, bareMinerals SPF 15 Foundation looks like a powder, feels like a cream and buffs on like silk, giving skin a natural luminosity, and feels as if you are not wearing any makeup at all. The coverage is flawless, free of preservatives, talc, oil, waxes, fragrances, and other chemicals that can irritate skin and cause breakouts.
NARS Balanced Foundation
Barcelona (tanned, olive and Asian complexions with golden yellow tones) Fiji (medium complexions with golden yellow undertones) Budapest (light to medium olive complexions)
Contouring and Highlighting to fix flaws:
Before we get into eye makeup applications, I want you to keep in mind that these can be used for woman with or without a crease or bottom lid. Think of the entire eye area as being a flat canvass. This will make it easier for you to understand makeup placement. When I refer to the following this is what area I mean:
Brow bone: With or without a prominent brow bone, same area
Crease Area: With or without a crease, it doesn't matter. You will still put the makeup in this area!
Lash Line: Directly above upper lashes
Outer Corner: Very corner of the eye, right above lashes
Inner Corner: Directly outside the corner of eye
Inner Lid: With or without a lid, this is the area from inner corner to where your pupil sits if looking straight on in the mirror, about 1/4 wide.
Basic Beautiful application:
Prime eyes. Apply highlight to brow bone area. Apply Medium shade to inner lid. Apply Darkest shade to crease, blending down into the outer corner of eye and also under the bottom lashes. Line eyes with liquid liner. Start near the pupil, close to the lashes, line becomes slightly thicker while moving towards outer corner. Line bottom lashes with crayon pencil. Curl lashes and apply mascara.
Prime eyes. Apply highlight to brow bone area. Apply Medium shade to crease area and inner lid, extending lightly towards nose. Also, take your smallest brush and line under bottom lashes with medium color. Apply Darkest shade to outer corner, blending in a vertical V shape "< " Line the bottom inner lids with a dark brown pencil .Curl lashes and apply mascara.
Prime eyes. Apply highlight to brow bone area. Apply Darkest shade to crease area and inner lid, extending lightly towards nose and extending past the outer corner, ending in a vertical V shape Line eyes with black liquid liner, extending just past outer corner. Line bottom lashes with black pencil. Also, take your smallest brush and line under bottom lashes with Darkest color. Curl lashes and apply mascara.
Prime eyes. Apply Medium Shade all over eye, extending towards nose. Line bottom lashes with Deep brown pencil. And lightly line the upper lids with Brown pencil and smudge the line. Curl lashes and apply mascara.
- Before you shop, here's a few tips to remember:
- Look for yellow undertone foundations, powders and correctors. Stay away from drugstore lines, since they tend to be too pink for woman of color. Spend a little extra money at a high end retailer. You won't be disappointed when you find a good shade that works for you, it's priceless!!
- Since Asian skin tends to be combination and eye lids can become oily, causing makeup to smudge, use an eye makeup primer to keep liner and shadow in place.
- When choosing eye color shades, the skies the limit! Greens look beautiful with deep brown eyes. Use shimmering light tones to highlight. Stay away from shades that are too pink in tone.
- Invest in an eyelash curler. This will curl those straight lashes and lengthen. Your mascara will look so much nicer and lashes longer!!
- For blush stick to plum and bronzed tones. Say away from bright pink tones.
Our Must have makeup picks for Asian woman:
This makeup line is amazing! It has SHADE FINDER to help you pick the correct tone. Asian woman should wear the M SERIES, which has several yellow based tones for all colors of Asian skin. They carry powder, liquid, cream and mineral foundation types.
A makeup artist must-have, this lid primer keeps eye shadow from doing a disappearing act. Translation: apply you shadow in the morning and it will still be there come evening sans smudging, dulling or creasing. Eyeshadow Primer Potion is an ultra-sheer, totally nude eye base that glides on with the wave of a wand and then disappears instantly. It's the ultimate eye prep for smoother, longer-lasting, crease-proof eyeshadow.
To use: Apply and let dry before putting on your favorite eyeshadow shades, for dazzling eye looks that stay put.
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